Difference between revisions of "Quick Start Guide"

Revision as of 23:34, 9 July 2014

Skip the background, just step me through it

THIS IS A WORK IN PROGRESS

Background

A 3D printer takes a 3D model and turns in into a plastic part. To do this there are a number of pieces of software complete this task. A good source of more information can be found here:Software Toolchain (reprap.org)) We suggest the following open source applications:

Slic3r:

Slic3r takes a 3D model (usually a .stl file) and turns it into Gcode. Gcode is the instructions for the 3D printer to create the part. An example of "start GCode" is shown below, and would be added to the beginning to a huge file of similar commands as part of the initialization process. A good list of what each line means to the print can be found here.

M92 X118.52 ; calibrate X

M92 Y118.52 ; calibrate Y

M92 Z4031.5 ; calibrate Z

M92 E1850 ; calibrate E

M220 S100

M221 S100

M201 X1500 Y1500

G28

G92 E0

G1 E5.0 F100

G92 E0

Install Slic3r

Download Page

Printrun

Once the 3D model (.stl) has been turned into Gcode, it must be feed into the printer. This can be done by loading the gcode file onto a micro SD card and putting it into the printer or feeding it through a feeder program.

Install Printrun

Windows or Mac

Details

Just the Steps

A video walkthrough of these steps can be found here: http://youtu.be/ZEZWn6atmq4

1. Download and install Slic3r - Slic3r has a nice download and install page which can be found here. We suggest downloading the precompiled version to get started.
2. Download and install Printrun - Printrun is a little more complicated to install then Slic3r. But again we recommend the precompiled version to get started. It can be found here. Printrun doesn't need to be installed in windows. You can just run it from where ever you extract the zip file.
3. Download Test file - File:20mm-box.stl
4. Download Slic3r Configuration file - File:Gigabot Slic3r config.ini
5. Slice Test File - File:20mm-box.gcode.txt
6. Connect to printer - After powering up Gigabot and connecting the USB port to your computer, open Printrun, select the proper comm port, and use 250000 for the speed. Click connect.
7. Load your file - Load the gcode into Pronterface. You should see a representation of the first layer of your object on the plater.
8. Calibrate your printer - You will need to follow the calibration procedure at the end of the Parts Kit Assembly Instructions prior to starting your first print. Do this now if you haven't done it already.
9. Home your axes - If needed, press the positive Z 1mm button on the Pronterface panel a couple of times to clear the tip from the bed surface. Watching the cables that they don't get tangled or inadvertantly touch the limit switches, press the home button to home all axes.
10. Heat the hotend - Heat the nozzle to the appropriate level by typing in 200 (for PLA) in the "Heat:" area and click "Set".
11. Watch carefully as nozzle heats - It is VERY IMPORTANT to see a smooth curve of heating on the graph (click the "Watch" checkbox if the graph is offline), and a positive trend on T0 in the data on the bottom left of the screen. If the temperature does not change within 15 seconds, immediately click "Off" on the heater and carefully check to see if the thermistor is properly seated in the nozzle tip.
12. Extrude some test plastic - With "5" in the "mm" box and "100" in the "mm/min" box, click extrude, one click at a time, until a steady stream of plastic exits the nozzle.
13. Print your object - Click "Print" on Pronterface to start your print.
14. Keep an eye on your print - As the Gigabot goes through it's actions, be ready to press pause if there is anything wrong with the print (and be aware that there is a buffer and will take a few seconds to actually accept the pause command). If anything sounds bad (like belts jumping or the hotend contacting the bed forcefully), power down the Gigabot using the switch on the electrical box, and the click "Disconnect" in Pronterface. Powerup again, reconnect, and assess what may have gone wrong.
15. Retrieve your finished print - When the print is complete, your nozzle will cool automatically. You will need to do this manually if you paused the print for any other reason.
16. Assess your print - Look at the parts of your print that could be improved. Repeat the process with slightly lower temperature... a slightly higher temperature. You can even adjust the temperature during the print to see the effects in real time. Open Slic3r and adjust other parameters one at a time to see what they do to the quality. Also, consider how the design and/or orientation of your model affects the results of your print. There are endless possibilities in not only design, but the printing process itself. Share your successes (and failures) and engage others in this expansive and growing 3D printing community!