Difference between revisions of "Gigabot Troubleshooting"

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=Thermal Runaway=
 
=Thermal Runaway=
−
If Viki displays error message “Thermal Runaway” The set-point and actual temperature are more than 10 Degrees different for more than 60 seconds.  
+
If Viki displays error message “Thermal Runaway” - This indicates the set-point and actual temperature are more than 10 Degrees different for more than 60 seconds.  
  
−
Collect data -  
+
Contact customer support with this data -  
 
#GB number
 
#GB number
 
#Screen shot of temperature graph when error occurs
 
#Screen shot of temperature graph when error occurs
Line 32: Line 32:
 
If Viki displays error message “Max Temp” - Hot end or bed is reading temperature above upper limit set in firmware. Bed - 150C, Hot end - GB2-245C, GB3-350C on some and 400C on others
 
If Viki displays error message “Max Temp” - Hot end or bed is reading temperature above upper limit set in firmware. Bed - 150C, Hot end - GB2-245C, GB3-350C on some and 400C on others
  
−
Collect data -  
+
Contact customer support with this data -
 
#GB number
 
#GB number
 
#Screen shot of temperature graph when error occurs  
 
#Screen shot of temperature graph when error occurs  
Line 61: Line 61:
 
If an offset occurs in X or Y axis during a print
 
If an offset occurs in X or Y axis during a print
  
−
Collect data -  
+
Contact customer support with this data -  
 
#GB number
 
#GB number
 
#Photo of shift when the print is still on the bed
 
#Photo of shift when the print is still on the bed
−
#Direction of print shift (X or Y or both axis)
+
#Direction of print shift (X, Y or both axis)
 
#.factory file
 
#.factory file
 
#Picture inside electrical box
 
#Picture inside electrical box
Line 91: Line 91:
  
  
−
=Extruder Skipping / Nozzle Clog=
+
=Extruder Skipping / Nozzle Clog / If the filament is not extruding and a notch is cut into the filament=
 
If the extruder makes an audible clicking or skipping action and the extrusion is inconsistent or if there is a notch grinded into the filament with shavings present:
 
If the extruder makes an audible clicking or skipping action and the extrusion is inconsistent or if there is a notch grinded into the filament with shavings present:
  
−
Collect Data -  
+
Contact customer support with this data -  
 
#Gigabot number
 
#Gigabot number
 
#Picture / Video of skipping during print / extrude command
 
#Picture / Video of skipping during print / extrude command
Line 103: Line 103:
  
 
Causes - Extruder is not able to push the filament through the hot end
 
Causes - Extruder is not able to push the filament through the hot end
−
#Hot end cooling fan not working (GB3/3+ or GB2 machines with the AMHE upgrade)
+
#Hot end cooling fan not working (GB3/3+ or GB2 machines with the All Metal Hot End upgrade)
−
#This causes the filament to get soft further up the hot end which causes binding inside of the hot end. The cooling fan’s purpose is to prevent heat from rising into the barrel
+
 
#Filament tensioner too tight or too loose
 
#Filament tensioner too tight or too loose
−
#Nozzle is loose from the assembly and filament is leaking into the threads because of the gap between the thermal barrier tube and the nozzle.
 
 
#Hot end too cold for filament / print speed
 
#Hot end too cold for filament / print speed
−
#Especially when using a .8mm nozzle, the user will need to drastically reduce the speed of printing to account for the extra heat loss from printing large layers. When it comes out, the Mondo hot end will be able to print at standard speed.
 
 
#Hot end clogged
 
#Hot end clogged
 
#This could be the result of not using a filament filter. If foreign dust/material makes it’s way into the hot end, it can cause a clog
 
#This could be the result of not using a filament filter. If foreign dust/material makes it’s way into the hot end, it can cause a clog
−
#PTFE liner is swelled up (GB2)
+
#J head PTFE liner is swelled up (GB2). The J head is rated for about 500 hours before the PTFE liner swells.
−
#The J head is rated for about 500 hours before the PTFE liner swells. Some customers have gone far beyond this limit.
+
#Extruder gearbox is defective.
−
#Extruder gearbox is defective
+
−
#Some motors have been found to have an improper amount of lubricant inside the internal gears. This is a factory defect and should be replaced.
+
 
#Using GB2 profile on a GB3 machine
 
#Using GB2 profile on a GB3 machine
 +
#Nozzle is loose from the assembly and filament is leaking into the threads because of the gap between the thermal barrier tube and the nozzle.
  
 
Solutions -
 
Solutions -
 
#Verify the hot end cooling fan is active above 50C
 
#Verify the hot end cooling fan is active above 50C
−
#Verify that the correct profile is being used for their machine by looking at their factory file.
 
 
#Adjust filament tensioner to specification
 
#Adjust filament tensioner to specification
−
#Adjust hot end temp to match material, layer height, print speed
+
#Try cold pull
 
#Replace filament filter  
 
#Replace filament filter  
−
#Try cold pull
+
#Replace hot end (GB2)
 +
#Some motors have been found to have an improper amount of lubricant inside the internal gears. This is a factory defect and should be replaced.
 +
#Verify that the correct profile is being used for the Gigabot.
 
#Replace hot end
 
#Replace hot end
−
#Replace hot end (GB2)
 
−
#Replace extruder motor
 
−
#Replace J-head hot end or upgrade to the AMHE
 
−
 
−
If the filament is not extruding and a notch is cut into the filament
 
−
 
−
Collect Data -
 
−
#Gigabot number
 
−
#Picture / Video of extruder and print head
 
−
#.factory file
 
−
#Filament type
 
−
#Customer using dust filter?
 
−
In the case of a clog, instruct them to drop the hot end (keeping cooling fan attached), heat up, and try to pull out with pliers.
 
  
 
=Offset after Filament Change=
 
=Offset after Filament Change=
  
−
Collect Data -  
+
Contact customer support with this data -  
 
#Right or left Extruder active?
 
#Right or left Extruder active?
 
#X or Y axis?
 
#X or Y axis?
Line 166: Line 150:
 
***Standard specification for Gigabot bed is to be flat within 0.005”
 
***Standard specification for Gigabot bed is to be flat within 0.005”
  
−
Collect Data -  
+
Contact customer support with this data -  
−
#Determine if the bed needs to be leveled or the bed is warped
+
 
#Use dial indicator or feeler gauges to measure bed surface
 
#Use dial indicator or feeler gauges to measure bed surface
 
#Record surface deviation in inches or mm
 
#Record surface deviation in inches or mm
Line 175: Line 158:
  
 
Causes -  
 
Causes -  
−
Heat related issue may cause bed to warp
+
#Bed not leveled
 +
#Heat related issue may cause bed to warp
  
 
Solution
 
Solution
 +
#Level Bed
 
#Print thicker first layer.
 
#Print thicker first layer.
 
#Print on raft
 
#Print on raft
 
#Replace bed with new cast aluminum bed (older beds were rolled aluminum)
 
#Replace bed with new cast aluminum bed (older beds were rolled aluminum)
−
 
  
 
=Discontinued Parts=
 
=Discontinued Parts=
Line 189: Line 173:
  
 
Solution -  
 
Solution -  
−
For the extruder, refer them to link: http://www.ultibots.com/gregs-wade-extruder-hardware-kit
+
For the extruder:
 +
http://www.ultibots.com/gregs-wade-extruder-hardware-kit
 
https://www.ultibots.com/gregs-wade-reloaded-extruder/
 
https://www.ultibots.com/gregs-wade-reloaded-extruder/
 
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:18379
 
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:18379
 +
 +
For J-head, refer to:
 +
http://www.makerfarm.com/index.php/hot-ends/j-head-mk-iv-b-hot-end-for-3mm-filament.html
 +
 +
Recommended: Upgrade a GB2 J-Head to GB3 all metal hot end upgrade kit available on the shopify page here:
  
  
−
For J-head, refer them to: http://www.makerfarm.com/index.php/hot-ends/j-head-mk-iv-b-hot-end-for-3mm-filament.html
 
−
Recommend a GB2 to GB3 all metal hot end upgrade kit available on the shopify page
 
 
First get a picture of their Azteeg board. If it is a V2 board then you’re fine (there are servo pins on the bottom left of the board), if it’s a V1 then we need to make sure it has the thermocouple chip before selling it to them.
 
First get a picture of their Azteeg board. If it is a V2 board then you’re fine (there are servo pins on the bottom left of the board), if it’s a V1 then we need to make sure it has the thermocouple chip before selling it to them.
  

Revision as of 19:04, 20 September 2017

Thermal Runaway

If Viki displays error message “Thermal Runaway” - This indicates the set-point and actual temperature are more than 10 Degrees different for more than 60 seconds.

Contact customer support with this data -

  1. GB number
  2. Screen shot of temperature graph when error occurs
  3. .factory file
  4. Nozzle size?
  5. Print Speed?
  6. Part cooling fan on?
  7. Did thermal runaway error happen:
    1. While heating bed?
    2. While heating hot end?
    3. After the first layer when the outrigger fan turns on?

Causes -

  1. PID tuning not correct
  2. Printing too high temp
  3. Heater cartridge needs replaced
  4. Thermistor falling out / failing (GB2 J-head hot end)
  5. Older firmware had a glitch where it would heat to a different temperature than the setpoint occasionally.

Solutions -

  1. Check to see the temperature is stable within +- 5C from the temp graph screenshot
  2. If hot end temp is above 230C part cooling fans should be off
  3. Replace heater cartridge
  4. Use Kapton tape to hold thermistor in place
  5. Update firmware


Max Temp

If Viki displays error message “Max Temp” - Hot end or bed is reading temperature above upper limit set in firmware. Bed - 150C, Hot end - GB2-245C, GB3-350C on some and 400C on others

Contact customer support with this data -

  1. GB number
  2. Screen shot of temperature graph when error occurs
  3. .factory file
  4. Did Max Temp error happen:
    1. While heating of bed?
    2. While heating hot end?
    3. During the print?

Causes -

  1. Hot end temp set too high
  2. Thermocouple defective (GB3 and GB3+)
  3. Break / short with thermistor (GB2)
  4. Break or short in head cable (GB2)
  5. Thermocouple daughter board defective (GB3 and GB3+) BED ONLY
  6. Thermocouple daughter board jumper is loose (GB3 and GB3+) BED ONLY

Solutions -

  1. Reduce temperature in S3D
  2. Replace thermocouple
  3. Replace thermistor
  4. Replace head cable
  5. Replace daughterboard
  6. Replace jumper wire


Print Shift

If an offset occurs in X or Y axis during a print

Contact customer support with this data -

  1. GB number
  2. Photo of shift when the print is still on the bed
  3. Direction of print shift (X, Y or both axis)
  4. .factory file
  5. Picture inside electrical box

Causes -

  1. Print curled and caught extruder tip during a print or rapid travel move
  2. Wheels too tight. Measure force required to move gantry and trolley.
  3. Missing electrical box cooling duct
  4. GB operating in hot and dusty environment
  5. Loose motor pulley
  6. Motor driver overheating and momentarily cut out / Bad Motor Driver
  7. Print head not freely moving in X or Y axis and system is “bound up”

Solutions -

  1. Inspect factory file for overhangs. Reducing from two perimeters to one can help
  2. Adjust wheel tension to specification
  3. Add electrical box cooling duct
  4. Move GB into a clean and cool environment
  5. Tighten motor pulley set screw
  6. Replace motor driver
  7. Adjust belt tension to specification

Tests To test for a bad motor driver you can swap the motor driver with a different axis. Typically the older motor drivers with a black heatsink had their voltage tuned manually with a trimpot. If you see that the motor drivers have a black heatsink, it’s a good idea to check the back and see if it is missing the 3 pins along the top. If there are only rows of pins on each side then you will need to make sure they re-tune their motor drivers for the appropriate axis when swapping. It’s important to attach a picture of the azteeg showing which motor drivers to swap as some customers won’t know what a motor driver is. Check to make sure the wheels are tensioned properly.


Extruder Skipping / Nozzle Clog / If the filament is not extruding and a notch is cut into the filament

If the extruder makes an audible clicking or skipping action and the extrusion is inconsistent or if there is a notch grinded into the filament with shavings present:

Contact customer support with this data -

  1. Gigabot number
  2. Picture / Video of skipping during print / extrude command
  3. .factory file
  4. Filament type
  5. Customer using dust filter?
  6. Is the hot end leaking from above the nozzle or above the heater block?

Causes - Extruder is not able to push the filament through the hot end

  1. Hot end cooling fan not working (GB3/3+ or GB2 machines with the All Metal Hot End upgrade)
  2. Filament tensioner too tight or too loose
  3. Hot end too cold for filament / print speed
  4. Hot end clogged
  5. This could be the result of not using a filament filter. If foreign dust/material makes it’s way into the hot end, it can cause a clog
  6. J head PTFE liner is swelled up (GB2). The J head is rated for about 500 hours before the PTFE liner swells.
  7. Extruder gearbox is defective.
  8. Using GB2 profile on a GB3 machine
  9. Nozzle is loose from the assembly and filament is leaking into the threads because of the gap between the thermal barrier tube and the nozzle.

Solutions -

  1. Verify the hot end cooling fan is active above 50C
  2. Adjust filament tensioner to specification
  3. Try cold pull
  4. Replace filament filter
  5. Replace hot end (GB2)
  6. Some motors have been found to have an improper amount of lubricant inside the internal gears. This is a factory defect and should be replaced.
  7. Verify that the correct profile is being used for the Gigabot.
  8. Replace hot end

Offset after Filament Change

Contact customer support with this data -

  1. Right or left Extruder active?
  2. X or Y axis?
  3. How big is the offset (mm)?
  4. Gigabot number?
  5. Firmware Version?
  6. Picture / Video of extruder and print head
  7. .factory file

Causes -

  1. XY bracket is too far left (as viewed from the front)
  2. Using Firmware 4.1.4
  3. Using old .factory file (FFF Settings)

Solutions -

  1. Loosen M5 x 20 and adjust X/Y Upright to the right to avoid contact with limit switch
  2. Update to latest firmware
  3. Update to latest factory file

Note: Latest firmware slows down homing speed - better repeatability

Bed not flat

If the customer notices the bed is not flat (warped) and the first layer is not depositing evenly.

      • Standard specification for Gigabot bed is to be flat within 0.005”

Contact customer support with this data -

  1. Use dial indicator or feeler gauges to measure bed surface
  2. Record surface deviation in inches or mm
  3. Gigabot number
  4. Picture / Video
  5. .factory file

Causes -

  1. Bed not leveled
  2. Heat related issue may cause bed to warp

Solution

  1. Level Bed
  2. Print thicker first layer.
  3. Print on raft
  4. Replace bed with new cast aluminum bed (older beds were rolled aluminum)

Discontinued Parts

Problem - User has a GB2 and is looking to either replace their J-head (no longer sold by re:3D) or their GB2 extruder (greg wade type, no longer sold by re:3D)

Solution - For the extruder: http://www.ultibots.com/gregs-wade-extruder-hardware-kit https://www.ultibots.com/gregs-wade-reloaded-extruder/ http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:18379

For J-head, refer to: http://www.makerfarm.com/index.php/hot-ends/j-head-mk-iv-b-hot-end-for-3mm-filament.html

Recommended: Upgrade a GB2 J-Head to GB3 all metal hot end upgrade kit available on the shopify page here:


First get a picture of their Azteeg board. If it is a V2 board then you’re fine (there are servo pins on the bottom left of the board), if it’s a V1 then we need to make sure it has the thermocouple chip before selling it to them.

Gigabot Stops Mid Print and is Unresponsive

Collect Data -

  1. Is the hot end still heated?
  2. Are they printing from SD or from USB?
  3. Is USB connected to computer?
  4. Error message on Viki?
  5. .factory file
  6. Is GB plugged into a UPS (uninterrupted power supply)?
  7. Does the Viki say “Gigabot Ready?”

Causes -

  1. Computer interrupting via USB
  2. Bad SD card - similar to corrupted GCode
  3. Corrupted Gcode - often the hot end will still be hot and the hot end may have moved from its stopping point
  4. Power interruption - Hot end will be cold and in the place it stopped

Solution -

  1. Do not print via USB and remove USB cable from computer
  2. Re-format SD card / replace SD card
  3. Re-slice object
  4. Install UPS

Gigabot will not heat

The heater stays at ambient temperature when trying to heat up or the heater cannot get to full temperature and triggers a “heating failed” error.

Collect data -

  1. Picture/Video of the customer trying to heat from Control>Temperature>Hot End via the Viki
  2. Picture of the hot end heater wires going into the heater
  3. Picture of the Azteeg board

Possible causes -

  1. Heater is going bad, new heater needed
  2. Broken cable at heater end, new heater needed
  3. Break in the head cable, new head cable needed
  4. Unplugged head cable wires, check Azteeg picture
  5. Unplugged from head cable connector (GB3,GB3+ or AMHE Upgraded GB2)

Customer has offset dual extrusion prints

Collect Data -

  1. X3 or X3 Pro controller?
  2. Right or Left extruder active?
  3. How big is the offset (mm)?
  4. Gigabot number?
  5. Firmware Version?
  6. Picture / Video of extruder and print head
  7. .factory file

Causes -

  1. Using wrong .factory file
  2. Using Firmware 4.1.4

Solutions -

  1. If X3 then toolhead offset is set in S3D, If X3 Pro then toolhead offset is set in firmware
  2. Update to latest firmware

Note: Latest firmware slows down homing speed - better repeatability

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